A Lesson on Vinyl Siding

                                     

The Benefits of Vinyl Siding

There are few subjects in the whole realm of residential and commercial construction products that draw battle lines as sharply as vinyl siding. Proponents harp on the fact that it never needs painting, while its detractors insist that houses should never be covered with anything but real wood. 

As a building material, vinyl siding is relatively new — it was introduced in the late 1950s as a substitute for aluminum siding. However, its reputation was tarnished in the early days when it cracked, faded, buckled, and sagged due to lack of industry knowledge on how to perfect the product. Thankfully, ongoing changes in the product's chemistry and installation techniques have improved its performance and furthered its acceptance by builders and homeowners.

Today, a mid-grade vinyl costs about $1.60 per square foot to install, not including the necessary trim pieces; while the installed price of mid-grade cedar clapboard, exclusive of trim and paint, is about 2.5 times higher. For many people, price isn't the issue at all; the real seduction of plastic siding is reduced maintenance.

All Plastic Siding is Not the Same

New, so-called virgin vinyl siding has a greater complement of the key additives that impart flexibility and resistance to UV degradation. Some manufacturers will boast their product as 100 percent virgin, but most siding is made with a core of remelted vinyl top-coated with virgin material. Rap on a vinyl-sided wall with your knuckles, and it will flex and sound hollow. That's because, in most cases, only a relatively small area of a vinyl panel is actually resting against the sheathing. 

A thin panel, or one without support, is more likely to sag over time. However, the thicker sidings tend to be stiffer, and therefore more resistant to sagging, but stiffness depends on other characteristics as well. Panels with a folded-over, doubled nailing hem and a relatively deep profile tend to be stiffer than others, as do those with narrow “clapboards”: The more bends the better. Although claims are made that thicker siding is also more impact resistant than thin siding, test results suggest that it has more to do with its chemical makeup, which, unfortunately, is not available to consumers who want to compare products. Thinner, less-stiff sidings can also be sucked off a house when high winds blow. Reading the manufacturer's warranty should give you a good indication of the product's ability to handle heavy weather.

While wood siding is fastened tightly to the house, vinyl siding literally hangs from nails driven through horizontal slots at the top of a panel's nailing hem. The reason for the loose nailing has to do with the vinyl's need to expand or contract as the temperature changes.

One characteristic that distinguishes vinyl from other siding is its overlaps. While lengths of wood siding meet in an unobtrusive butt, vinyl panels must be overlapped by about 1 inch wherever they meet, resulting in telltale vertical lines. The thicker the vinyl, the more obvious the overlap. Compounding the problem, most vinyl siding panels are molded to represent double or even triple widths of clapboards. This slashes installation time dramatically, but it also makes panel overlaps even more visible. A good installer will orient overlaps away from dominant views, for example, by running the siding from a back corner to a front corner. On the front of the house, panels should be installed so seams are least visible to someone approaching the front door.

Every quality vinyl siding job starts with the contractor. Don't hesitate to ask potential installers for their certifications — most of the large manufacturers certify installers in proper installation techniques — and for the names of satisfied customers.

Not Entirely Maintenance Free

To keep vinyl siding looking its best, it should be washed periodically to remove the mold, mildew, dirt, and chalky oxidation that collects on the surface. Avoid using high-pressure equipment such as powerwashers to clean your siding as it can compromise the integrity of the product. Thankfully, repairing a damaged panel is simple. With a zip tool and a flick of the wrist, you can simply unhook it from the ones above and below, then pull out the nails. A new panel can then be snapped in place, nailed, and rehooked. The biggest problem is matching the replacement to the surrounding pieces, which will undoubtedly have faded.

All vinyl siding will fade somewhat. After 10 to 15 years, the change can be significant. When that happens, or if you simply want to change its color, vinyl can be painted, as self-defeating as it may seem. Wash the siding first, and use latex paint, which will flex with the vinyl's movement. But don't count on changing a pale-yellow house to hunter green; dark colors absorb more heat than lighter ones and can cause panels to expand too much and buckle.

Going with Vinyl

Much of what appeals to us about older historic houses, apart from their architectural style, is the graceful moldings, well-proportioned trim, subtle shadow lines, even the slight irregularities in the spacing of the siding — testaments to the skills of this country's housewrights. But in countless slipshod re-siding jobs, where vinyl is slapped up over the existing shingles or clapboards, these details have been obliterated, making the facades of handsome gingerbread houses as plain as sheet cakes.

For those contemplating having a house re-sided, find a contractor who specializes in old-house work not just in vinyl siding, pending that all the architectural details remain in place. A proper paint job may make more sense, if that's the case. Sometimes, re-siding jobs are sold as a way to “tighten up” the house and reduce energy bills. The installers simply nail up a layer of foil-faced foam before the vinyl goes up. The final word: If you have any doubts about its effects, don't put vinyl siding on your old house. 

Raising the Roof When it's Time to Sell Your Home

                                   

Are you aware of an issue with your roof? Are you in the process of selling your home? If so, it makes good sense to repair your roof before potential buyers begin to walk through. While you may think you are pulling off a fast one, most buyers are going to order a home inspection. In turn, the problem will show and you will be forced to fix it at a later date –  only this time on the buyer’s terms instead of your own.

Also, keep in mind that a major roof problem can lead to other issues. For instance, a small leak can lead to insulation and structural issues if ignored. The last thing you need while trying to sell your home is water damage.

It is very important that you show potential buyers just how great your home is. A roof in good condition is a huge plus for anybody looking to buy a home. The smartest move you can make as a homeowner and seller is to have your roof inspected before placing it on the market. 

By contracting with a company like Trudel and Sons Roofing, you get the option of getting a full Assessment Report on your roof that you can show to your prospective buyers proving to them that you have nothing to hide.

How to Inspect Your Next Commercial Roofing Project

Commercial re-roof job walks are crucial to assessing the existing roof system. They help you learn the steps needed to remove and install a new roof system efficiently while minimizing occupant impact and maximizing company profits. An improperly assessed building can easily move the project from successful to detrimental. With a fairly simple checklist and an inspection kit, you can make a thorough assessment on the roof and minimize costly hidden pitfalls to help you land the job and gain the trust of the client.

Let’s start with your basic tool kit. Most of the time, you will need to climb a ladder to get onto the roof, and a safe way to transport your tools is to put them in a simple backpack. Here are the supplies you should carry with you during your inspection:

• Camera (video capability is highly recommended)
• Tape measure (25’ is sufficient)
• Measuring wheel
• Roof plan or aerial photo for making notes (Google Earth, for example)
• Note pad and pencil
• Flashlight
• Golf ball (it is important to know where the water goes)
• Laser temperature gun
• Roof core cutter
• Repair medium (such as plastic cement) to temporarily patch a core cut
• Infrared moisture scanner, if possible (hired services are also available)
• Spare batteries for all electronic devices

Once you’re on a roof, you’ll want to make a thorough assessment and minimize your time up there. However, keep in mind that sometimes you only get one shot to access the roof, so make sure to cover everything. Here is the basic information to collect:

• Building location
• Access for equipment, loading, staging, waste removal, etc. (be sure to consider the safety of pedestrians below and other trades working)
• Will the building be occupied or empty during roof installation?
• Safety requirements (fall protection, hazmat abatement, noise, debris, etc.)
• Chronological order and locations of other trades (any trades following roofing may need to take precautions to protect your work, such as stucco or metalwork over a single-ply roof)
• Substrate type
• Roofing system
• Desired warranty term
• Height of all roof decks and parapets (for both safety and loading materials)
• Where and how the system terminates on all planes
• Specifics of immediately adjacent trades (HVAC, plumbing, metal, stucco, etc.), including who covers the details that are often overlooked, such as wood blocking, drains, pipe flashings, metal flashings, etc.
• Establish with the person controlling the schedule (usually the general contractor, consultant, or owner) whether the project will be phased or available all at once.

Once you have all those answers, it is time to walk the roof. Be sure to double check measurements on the roof plan with the measuring wheel. Take time to observe the general condition of the existing membrane as it will give you clues about the maintenance, drainage, environmental conditions, and occupant’s use. Use your golf ball in any area that the drainage is not completely obvious. Observe, measure, count, and photograph every type of penetration, and note whether electrical, gas, and plumbing lines will be disconnected or remain as is. Make notes on your roof plan for yourself, as well as concerns for the superintendent and/or foreman. Helpful tip: take video pans across different areas of the roof. This will allow you to “revisit” the roof in case you missed something on your initial inspection.Visit the inside of the building to look for signs of leaks and try to examine the underside of the roof deck whenever possible.

In commercial construction projects, a small overlooked detail can lead to huge unforeseen costs, so it is critical to cover all the bases. Create a checklist and follow it every time. A successful project starts with a thorough roof walk. Know that you can trust Trudel and Sons to meet all of your commercial roofing standards!

The Benefits and Risks of Replacing Your Roof During the Winter

It's a story that most roofers and contractors experience regularly every season... A customer calls in because of a leak, the roof is then assessed, and it requires a full replacement. It’s the middle of winter and the homeowner asks if this can wait until spring. Intuitively, roofing in the winter doesn’t seem to be such a good idea, right? Let’s sort this out by looking at three components that affect the final result: the human factor, the tools’ capacity to perform, and the shingle product itself.

First, there are human beings that will work on that roof. Morale in roofing is very important, as it is in many other trades—when people hate their job, they cut corners. Especially if those corners can make them go home faster! Starting the day shoveling and ice-breaking on the roof doesn’t help the morale of the crew. Nevertheless, it is imperative to install on an “appropriate substrate”—and snow and ice are not on the list. We need to reach the bare deck, especially in new construction. Any kind of precipitation will render the slope slippery, adding to the level of hazard and reducing the speed and comfort of the workers. The temperature is not to be neglected, as roofing is very physically demanding. Would you run a marathon carrying 30 pounds of gear? Wearing a winter jacket, pants, boots, hat, etc., can add another 15 pounds to your body weight. Because of the need to use your fingers precisely and bend your toes, a contractor can only wear small gloves and boots. For most roofers, it is uncomfortable below freezing and impossible with temperatures below that.

Second, the roofing crew uses many different tools. Some of them aren’t affected by temperature; but some, like compressors and nail guns, are certainly affected. When compressing and releasing the air in your system, humidity will turn into water. If the temperature is close to freezing, this water will freeze in the airlines and reduce the airflow that the installer receives on the roof. Nails needs to be installed flush with the shingle, not overdriven or under driven. When the airline is obstructed by ice, nails are not pushed as deep as they should, which introduces a risk for under driven nails. This situation will require extra attention from the roofer to constantly set the depth adjuster on the gun and from the crew to monitor the presence of humidity or ice in the system.

Third, there’s the question of whether shingles should be installed in cold weather. The short answer is yes, but with some precautions. The asphaltic material in the shingle will lose its flexibility and resistance as the temperature goes down. It will become harder to bend the shingles and to cut them straight. Being more “brittle,” they’ll be more likely to be overdriven by nails when using regular pressure in the system. The "sweet spot” adjustment in pressure will become smaller and smaller. However, providing that the crew is extra conscious of that and takes the time to do it right, there are ways to deliver a proper installation. Another important consideration is if cold weather application increases the chances of blow-offs. All shingles are equipped with a self-sealant strip, a line of glue that activates with the sun and tabs the shingles together, preventing the wind from catching them. If the shingles are NOT tabbing properly because of temperature, they should be hand-sealed. This will prevent the wind to lift them before there is sufficient heat for them to self-seal.

The manufacturer is responsible for the self-seal to properly bond to the roof when activated. The roofing contractor is responsible for making sure the crew is comfortable enough to apply the shingles properly and that the temperature or countermeasures taken are sufficient to have a constant airflow to avoid overdriven or under driven nails. Finally, the crew leader or site supervisor is responsible for deciding if the roof is tabbing or not and if cold weather precautions (hand seal) should be taken. Sometimes, the seriousness of the roof situation outweighs the risk of doing the job in winter, but in most cases, when replacing your roof during the winter - it’s wise to wait until the temperature is above freezing.

How Much Snow Can Your Roof Handle?

During a big winter snow storm people often are asked to stay inside and off the impassable roads. Your roof is then left to endure the elements and expected to keep you and your family safe... But what happens if your roof can’t handle the pressure? Here’s some information to share with your homeowners while they are stuck inside.

Signs that a roof may be at risk from bearing the weight of the heavy white stuff:

● Visible Sagging

● Noises that sound like creaking or popping

● Leaking coming from the roof

Flat or low-pitched roofs are more vulnerable, but pitched roofs can still be at risk when the snow is very heavy.

When it’s safe to travel, contractors in the area or within driving distance have an opportunity to help homeowners repair an unsafe roof. Unfortunately, there are never any guarantees when it comes to the strength of a roof due to factors including: age of structure, age of roof, slope of roof, (in)effective roof installation, etc. In general, as much snow as possible should be raked off their roof, but leave a few inches to avoid damaging the shingles. Also, make sure the snow is thrown away from the building and be careful using metal tools around power lines. Contractors should advise homeowners to call their insurance company to see if they are covered in the event of a roof collapse. 

Call Trudel at (905) 642-3515 if you have any reservations about the condition of your roof this winter, we will provide you with peace of mind with our comprehensive roof inspection including a full detailed report on the condition and life expectancy of your roof.