Shingle Removal and Replacement

This blog post is for homeowners ready to challenge themselves by handling roofing replacement on their own. We’ve previously discussed tools necessary for shingle roof removal. If you are planning to repair or replace your shingle roof on your own, instead of hiring a roofing expert, expect to need some additional tools and materials at your disposal. We cover those below.

Safety First! As with shingle removal, safety should be your main concern (whether you’re on a flat roof or a pitched roof with steep surfaces). Borrow or purchase a heavy-duty, sturdy ladder—or consider renting scaffolding for safer access to extreme heights. In addition, consider a fall protection kit that comes with a harness, roof anchor, lanyard, counterweight and rope. Your fall protection kit should be used in conjunction with a hard hat, work gloves and slip-proof boots to prevent injury.

On top of applicable safety equipment, roof replacement and repairs require several common tools that can be purchased at your local hardware store or rented from a local equipment rental shop.

Tools Needed For Shingle Roof Replacement or Repair: Assuming that the flashing, felt and roof deck are in good order after removing your old shingles, when you are ready to repair or replace your shingle roofing you’ll need:

• 2×4 LUMBER STRIPS
• #16 NAILS
• HAMMER 

Prior to roof replacement, it’s a good idea to install a few 2×4 braces to maintain your footing. Lay each wood piece horizontal to the roof’s edge, and drive nails through each end of the 2×4 to attach them to the roof. Pull up the brace and re-nail it as you move around the roof surface.

ASPHALT ROOF SHINGLES: Remember to select shingles that complement your home’s paint and trim. Shingles are generally sold in “squares,” and each of these units cover roughly 100 sq. feet.

ASPHALT ROOFING CEMENT: Applied to the back side of each shingle, roofing cement helps to secure the shingle during nailing and ensures a tight fit to the roof’s surface. It’s also a good idea to apply roofing cement to nail heads to avoid small leaks.

GALVANIZED ROOFING NAILS: Used to secure shingles during installation. Hammer several galvanized nails through self-sealing strips found on each shingle’s surface.

REPLACEMENT FLASHING: As you install shingles around eaves, ridges and valleys, it’s important to make sure that all metal flashing is in tact. If not, you’ll need to reapply replacement flashing strips as needed.

UTILITY or SHARP LINOLEUM KNIFE: Used to cut portions of shingles or trimming shingles to the correct shape and size.

CHALK LINE: To ensure symmetrical placement of shingles, most roofers snap horizontal and vertical chalk lines on the roof deck. A level is also a useful tool for measuring exact shingle positioning.

You should always consult a roofing professional prior to embarking on any "DIY" repairs or replacements. Trudel and Sons Roofing is a family-owned and operated roofing company with more than 30 years of experience in both residential and commercial roofing repairs and re-roofing. Call us today for your comprehensive consultation at: (905)642-3515

3 Common Roof Leak Locations: Prevention and Repair Tips

Spring has arrived—with its unpredictable moisture patterns, gale-force winds and leftover snowstorms. For Ontario homeowners, that often means pesky roof leaks galore—in many common locations.

3 Common Roof Leak Locations – Prevention and Repair Tips

There are certain areas where roof leaks tend to develop more easily: around chimneys, skylights and in roof valleys. Let’s discuss each in more detail.

Leaking Chimneys. Whether it’s due to aging caulk, cracked cement caps or flashing problems, chimneys are one of the biggest problem areas when it comes to leaks. Many (but not all) chimney leaks can be repaired by peeling off old, dried caulking and roof sealant from around the chimney’s base. Inspect each area of flashing for cracks or damage, and replace flashing as needed. To improve the integrity of your flashing, remember to use a high-quality, flashing cement to re-caulk the area (rather than traditional roofing cements and sealants). If you have a more invasive leak caused by cracked mortar joints, stone or brick displacement, consider calling your local roofer who will perform a thorough roof inspection. The goal is to diagnose and repair the damage quickly.

Leaks Around Skylights. Finding the source of a skylight leak can be tricky, however most skylight leaks occur in the flashing, which marks the point of contact between the skylight and the roof. Often, simply replacing the flashing will solve the leak problem. Another issue is improper installation, in which case skylight leak repair can be a real headache. Other, less common reasons behind skylight leaks are: improperly installed fasteners, poor flashing seals, glass micro-fractures or fissures, sealant failure due to thermal expansion. Some skylight leaks are simple and are easily handled by do-it-yourself homeowners, but if you’re experiencing severe interior effects, such as ceiling staining or flooring damage, call your roofing contractor immediately.

Leaks in Roof Valleys. When two portions of your roof intersect, the resulting line is called a “valley.” Valleys typically contain a type of metal flashing, but in some cases, shingles or tiles may just butt up against one another. Either way, valleys are a common source for roof leaks. If your roof valleys contain metal flashing, it’s possible that the shingles were improperly cut, allowing water to leak behind faulty shingle tips and seep into your attic or down your walls. Valley leaks tend to be more complex to repair than other types of damage, so it’s best to have a contractor handle your roof valley repairs.

Some common roof leaks, if caught early enough, can be fixed by a capable do-it-yourselfer - however, if you ever have any doubts or hesitations, call Trudel and Sons Roofing at (905)642-3515!

DIY Gutter Repair Tips

If you follow our blog, you know that we are huge advocates for proper maintenance and preventative measures when it comes to protecting your biggest investment - your home and its roof. Your gutter system is a huge part of a properly functioning roof, and it should be inspected and maintained much like your roofing system. Gutter problems can lead to poor drainage, costly interior leaks and foundation breakdown.

DIY Gutter Repair Tips

Let’s take a look at a couple of most common problems you may find as you’re inspecting and maintaining your gutters. 

#1. The Problem: Sagging Gutters. Over time, the fasteners and brackets holding your gutters against the roof perimeter may begin to pull away—or even break off—so gutters begin to sag. In addition to being an eyesore, this sagging allows debris and sludge to build up in the center of lengthy gutter sections. Sagging gutters don’t drain as well, and sludge causes gutter deterioration over time.

The Repair: Reseating or Replacing Hangers. If your gutters are held in place by spike-and-ferrule hangers, try caulking around the spike and allowing caulking to cure. Then, drive the long spike deeper into the roof’s edge. If the spike does not “grab” solid wood when you drive it, change out the spike for a larger nail or a longer wood screw. For clip-style gutter hangers, you must pull up the edge of the roof and reattach hangers to the underlay, or “sheathing.” Be gentle with the roofing material, or you may crack shingles and cause additional roof damage.

#2. The Problem: Popped Rivets. If your home is protected by aluminum gutters, they’re probably attached to one another by rivets or small screws and further secured with roofing sealant or silicone caulking. As gutters shift and warp due to water weight, wind and age, rivets and screws may pop loose. Caulking also dries out over time, losing its ability to support gutter joints.

The Solution: Reinstalling Rivets. After climbing safely up to the roof’s edge, grasp the two loose gutter sections and place them together. Using a lightweight electric drill, make a small hole through each side of the gutter or downspout. Set pop rivets in each drilled hole, and use a pop rivet tool (available at most hardware stores) to secure the rivet into place. Apply a thin layer of roofing cement or exterior silicone caulking around the edge of the repaired gutter, and allow it to cure for 24 hours before testing the integrity of the connection. You may need to reapply a second layer of roof caulking to ensure a tight seal.

If you ever feel unsure or unsafe about performing any of these DIY fixes for your damaged gutters, don't hesitate to contact Trudel and Sons Roofing at (905)642-3515 and we'll be more than happy to send a pro your way to fix the problem!